Sewing Savvy Newsletter
Tips & Advice
|Notes From the Sewing Room|
|Summer means sleepover time! Any girl will be the belle of the ball with these pretty pj's at her next slumber party.|
Serged-to-perfection, perky pink pajamas in a poodle print will make any princess pleased as punch -- as long as there are no peas under the mattress.
Design by Barbara Rezac
- Purchased pajama pattern with short sleeves, back yoke, capri-length pants and front pocket*
- Fabric sufficient for pieces as indicated in cutting instructions below:
- bright mottled (A)
- coordinating print (B)
- contrasting mottled (C)
- Fusible interfacing as indicated in pattern
- Notions as indicated in pattern
- 4 or 5 cones of serger thread
- Basic sewing supplies and equipment
*Kwik Sew pattern No. 3553 was used for model project.
- Cut 2 1/2 inches from bottom edge of sleeve pattern.
- Cut 3 1/4 inches from bottom edge of capri-length pant leg.
- For elastic casing, check position of fold on pattern. Be sure there is the width of the elastic plus 1 inch beyond the fold.
From (A) fabric:
- Use pattern pieces to cut shirt front, shirt back, sleeves and one pocket.
- Cut one 6 1/2-inch strip the width of the fabric for pants cuffs.
- Cut one 1 1/2 x 5-inch piece for flat trim on shirt pocket.
From (B) fabric:
- Use pattern pieces to cut pants, one pocket, shirt yoke, collar and front facings.
- Cut one 5-inch strip the width of the fabric for sleeve cuffs.
- Cut one 1 1/2 x 5-inch piece for flat trim on pants pocket.
From (C) fabric:
- Use pattern piece to cut one yoke lining.
- Cut two 1 1/2-inch strips the width of the fabric for flat trim on sleeves and pant legs.
- Cut two 2 x 5-inch strips for pocket cuffs.
From fusible interfacing:
- Use pattern pieces to cut front facing.
- Use pattern piece to cut one collar.
Use 4- or 5-thread overlock with 1/4-inch-wide seam and medium stitch length, unless otherwise stated. Use polyester or poly/cotton blend thread. Press as you sew.
- Press flat trim for shirt pocket in half lengthwise, wrong sides together. Place across top edge of shirt pocket with top raw edges even (Figure 1).
- Press pocket cuff in half lengthwise, wrong sides together. Open fold. With right side of fabric toward flat trim, place a single layer of shirt-pocket cuff on top of pocket. Serge seam (Figure 2). Serge opposite edge of cuff to finish edge.
- Fold cuff right sides together so serging on free edge of cuff is just below seam joining cuff and flat trim. Serge across ends of cuff and perimeter of pocket (Figure 3). Turn cuff right side out. Using serger stitching as a guide, fold under seam allowance on edges of pocket (Figure 4). Stitch in the ditch at bottom of cuff.
- Repeat steps 1-3 for pants pocket.
- With right sides together, serge front and back pants leg down outer leg seam. Repeat with remaining pants leg.
- Position pants pocket centered over side seam on right pants leg at approximate knee level. Topstitch in place.
- With right sides together, match right front pants leg to left front pants leg. Serge front rise approximately 6 inches from waist to inner leg seam.
- Press top (waist) edge under the width of the elastic plus 3/8 inch. Turn folded edge the same width back to right side. Serge across, catching raw edge of fabric and fold to form casing (Figure 5). Note: It is okay to trim off the fold. Insert elastic into casing and adjust to size. Baste ends to secure.
- Press (C) fabric flat trim in half lengthwise with wrong sides together. Measure width of pant legs at bottom edge. Cut two lengths of flat trim this length. Place on bottoms of pants legs, right sides together and raw edges even.
- Using same measurement, cut two lengths of (A) fabric strips for pants cuffs. Press in half lengthwise with wrong sides together and place over flat trim on each leg, right sides together and raw edges even (Figure 6). Serge seams.
- With right sides together, serge inner leg seam on each pants leg, matching ends of cuff and trim. Stitch a bar tack at leg bottom to hold seam to one side.
- Place one leg inside the other, right sides together. Complete serging the rise, from front waist to back waist catching elastic to secure ends at center back waist. Stitch a bar tack at waist to hold seam to one side.
- Fuse interfacing to front facings and collar as instructed in pattern. Serge-finish outer edges of front facings.
- Topstitch shirt pocket to left front as indicated in pattern.
- Place right side of yoke lining to wrong side of shirt back. Place right side of yoke to right side of shirt back (Figure 7). Serge layers together.
- With right sides together, pin shirt fronts to yoke at shoulders (Figure 8a). Roll up shirt front and yoke (Figure 8b), then pin right side of yoke lining to wrong side of shirt front at shoulders, matching raw edges (Figure 8c). Serge shoulder seams (Figure 8d). Pull shirt right side out through one armhole.
- With right sides together, pin front facings to shirt front, matching center front raw edges. Serge seams. Turn facings to inside and press. Understitch facing on facing side below roll line of lapel, and on shirt side in lapel area. Note: To understitch, open seam flat. Straight stitch close to seam, catching serged seam allowance underneath.
- Fold interfaced collar right sides together and serge short ends. Turn right side out. Press. Roll collar to one side (Figure 9). Baste raw neckline edges together (Figure 10). Note: Raw edges will no longer be even.
- Turn front facing over shirt front, right sides together. At top edge of center front seam, fold seam allowance over directly on the needle stitching line (Figure 11). Keep center front seam folded as you serge neckline seam.
- Cut and serge sleeve flat trim and sleeve cuffs to bottoms of sleeves, referring to steps 5 and 6 for pants.
- Pin or baste sleeves to shirt as instructed in pattern. Serge by placing sleeve down on feed teeth and using differential feed to ease in sleeve fullness as needed.
- With right sides together, match raw edges of shirt body, underarm seams, and raw edges of sleeves, piping and cuffs. Serge. Stitch a bar tack at bottom of sleeve cuff to hold seam to one side.
- Serge bottom raw edge of shirt. Press hem up to crease (Figure 12a). Turn front facings back with right side of facings to right side of shirt fronts (Figure 12b). Straight-stitch hems across facings (Figure 12c). Trim out bulk. Turn facings to inside. Coverstitch hem in place, or straight stitch on sewing machine.
- Mark and stitch buttonholes as indicated in pattern. Sew on buttons to correspond.
Source: Pattern No. 3553 from Kwik Sew Pattern Co. Inc.
Copyright © 2009 Simple Serger Sewing, House of White Birches. All rights reserved.
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